Why West Coast Turf Dominates California & Arizona Sports Turf

West Coast Turf is more than just a sod supplier—we’re the preferred partner for professional and collegiate venues in California and Arizona. From MLB to NFL and top-tier college programs, our natural grass stands up to the challenge.

Trusted by Majors: Pro Stadiums & Colleges

Our sod graces the fields of elite venues like Dodger Stadium, Angel Stadium, Levi’s Stadium—and college icons like the Rose Bowl and Stanford Stadium. With a proven track record in Super Bowls, World Series, and high-stakes bowl games, turf managers rely on our consistent, high-performance grass.

Advanced Turf Tech: Ready Play Grass®

One of the innovations that sets us apart is our proprietary Ready Play Grass®. This sod is grown on plastic, creating a thicker, stronger 2-inch root mat that’s up to 3–4 times stronger than conventional sod. The result? Turf that’s ready for action immediately after installation—no downtime for rooting.

Ready Play Grass® is used by major stadiums like Dodger Stadium and BMO Sta, where turf needs to perform on day one. Its dense root system, perfect seams, and durability make it ideal for sports venues needing reliable, game-ready surfaces on tight schedules.

Climate-Tailored Sod for California & Arizona

With sod farms across California and Arizona, we grow more than 30 natural grass varieties designed for regional climate challenges—drought, heat, salt, and wear.

We specialize in:

• Warm-season grasses like Tifway 419, Tahoma 31, and Bandera Bermuda
• Cool-season grasses for coastal and high-elevation sites
• Salt-tolerant options like seashore paspalum for specialized environments
• Custom-grown sod tailored for specific rootzone mixes and soil bases

Whether you need elite turf for an NFL field or a versatile option for a multi-use park or college stadium, we’ve got the right sod for your conditions.

Full-Service, Championship-Ready Support

At West Coast Turf, we go beyond the grass. Our services include:

• Big-roll installations for efficient coverage
• Custom soil blends
• Night harvesting for freshness
• Field consulting from planning to post-installation care

We understand tight timelines and performance expectations—and we meet them every time.

Supreme Quality. Proven Performance.

Whether it’s MLB, NFL, or college sports, turf managers choose West Coast Turf because we deliver:

• Ready Play Grass® for immediate use
• Locally grown, climate-optimized sod for California and Arizona
• Proven success at championship venues
• Decades of expertise and end-to-end support

From iconic stadiums to campus game fields, we provide more than sod—we provide a surface built to perform when it matters most.

Contact us today to see why we’re the go-to source for California sod and Arizona sod trusted by sports professionals nationwide.

Summer in California and Arizona brings intense heat, low humidity, and long, sunny days—conditions that can be challenging for maintaining a lush, healthy lawn. But with the right turf care strategies, your grass can thrive even during the hottest months. Here’s your ultimate guide to keeping your turf in peak condition this summer.

1. Choose the Right Turfgrass Variety

The foundation of summer natural grass success starts with choosing the right variety. In the Southwest, warm-season grasses like Bermudagrass, TifTuf, and Tahoma 31 are ideal choices. These varieties are drought-tolerant, heat-resistant, and bounce back quickly from wear and tear. West Coast Turf offers these high-performance options, specially cultivated for California and Arizona climates.

2. Water Wisely

Efficient irrigation is essential in summer. Instead of watering every day, focus on deep, infrequent watering to encourage strong root growth. Early morning is the best time to water—before 8 a.m.—to reduce evaporation and fungal growth. Make sure your irrigation system is properly adjusted to avoid runoff and uneven coverage.

3. Mow Smart

Raise your mower blade during the summer months. Taller grass blades provide more shade to the soil, reducing evaporation and helping roots grow deeper. Never remove more than one-third of the blade length at a time, and always mow with sharp blades to avoid stressing the turf.

4. Fertilize Appropriately

Feeding your lawn during the growing season is critical, but timing and type matter. Use a slow-release nitrogen fertilizer to sustain steady growth without burning the turf. Avoid over-fertilizing during peak heat—it can stress the grass. Consult with your local West Coast Turf specialist for a fertilization plan tailored to your grass type and region.

5. Control Weeds and Pests

Summer conditions can lead to an increase in weeds and insect activity. Keep your turf dense and healthy to naturally crowd out weeds. Monitor for pests such as grubs and chinch bugs, and use targeted treatments if necessary. Integrated pest management practices are ideal for minimizing chemical use while maintaining control.

6. Aerate If Needed

Compacted soil can prevent water, air, and nutrients from reaching roots. If your lawn feels spongy or has heavy foot traffic, core aeration can relieve compaction and improve turf performance. Aerating in early summer can give your lawn a mid-season boost.

7. Stay Consistent

The key to summer turf care is consistency. Stick to a regular mowing, watering, and maintenance schedule. A little attention each week will prevent problems and keep your turf looking great all season long.

Summer lawn care in California and Arizona comes with its challenges, but with the right grass, tools, and techniques, you can maintain a beautiful, resilient yard. At West Coast Turf, we’re here to provide expert guidance and the highest quality sod for your unique climate. Contact us today to learn more about our summer-ready turfgrass options! 

Visit westcoastturf.com for more information and be sure to follow us on socials. 

I’d like to go over some common questions I have received through the blog in the last few weeks and see if it can help others with some of the same concerns. I always encourage everyone to send over your lawn questions and I will get back to you as soon as I can.

When should I start to transition my lawn back to bermudagrass?

I always recommend starting the process slowly in March and ramping up in April so your lawn has transitioned by May. I know that was a mouth full, but the truth is it’s not a short process unless you chemically transition your lawn. In March its ideal to start to gradually lower your mowing height and remove some of the turf canopy. This is not a scalp, this is lowering the height so the bermudagrass can breathe and get some sunlight. By mid-March you should be mowing two times per week and starting to see some thinning in the ryegrass. By thinning I mean bermudagrass leaves are starting to show between the ryegrass blades. Currently there is no need to fertilize the ryegrass, its time to back off on nutrition until bermudagrass season. In early April you can lightly verticut or even lightly power rake the lawn to remove some of the ryegrass giving way to bermudagrass. The more sunlight you can get in the grass, the faster you will transition. If the ryegrass remains extremely thick and lush you can expect it to provide excessive spring shade slowing down the bermudagrass. When soil temperatures reach 64 degrees (around April 15^th) go ahead and apply ammonium sulfate 21-0-0 at 5 pounds per 1000 SF to jump start your bermudagrass. Continue mowing two times per week and gradually lowering your heights until you see the bermudagrass take over.

Spring Transition, keep lowering the height…..

Can I still put down pre-emergent for broadleaves?

Most of the grassy weeds and broadleaves are now germinating so putting down the preemergent will not yield the results you’re looking for. At this juncture its best to spot spray weeds depending on the type. Make sure the product is labeled for the weed you’re trying to control and can safely be used on bermudagrass. Grassy weeds use different chemicals than broadleaves and not all chemicals are safe and effective so check with specialty stores for better products.

What can I do to repair the urine damage from my dogs? Read the rest of this entry »

By now, most of you who are going to overseed your California or Arizona sod have either begun the process or have had your seed down for a few weeks. Today, I want to discuss what to do now that you have the ryegrass growing and cooler temperatures are on the horizon.

Getting your ryegrass up and growing is obviously the first step to a successful winter lawn, but what about maintenance? How can you make sure your ryegrass is strong going into the winter and you will have a full stand of ryegrass once the temperatures begin to drop into the 40’s at night? There are several key items associated with a strong winter lawn but early preparation should be high on your list.

I know you put down a starter fertilizer with your seed but let’s remember that fertilizer will move freely in a saturated soil. The new plant took up most of the nutrients from the starter fertilizer application but the residual affect is limited because you’ve been keeping the seed wet for the past few weeks. So what exactly does this mean? Basically, what I’m trying to say is that once you’ve had your ryegrass lawn in for 2-3 weeks I would advise getting a second fertilizer application on the grass.

Read the rest of this entry »

Yes.  It is about that time!  If you have warm season grass, you are most likely considering overseeding your lawn. Check out this educational video including Q & A from Jay Danek–Mr. Wise Grass himself.  After this video you will know exactly what you need to have the best winter lawn in the neighborhood!

WATCH VIDEO HERE

Great news!  We now have our Kurapia drought tolerant groundcover sod back in stock in California and Arizona!

What they’re saying about Kurapia…….

•  “After extensive research and investigation, Kurapia was chosen for the following reasons: aesthetics, growth habit, drought tolerance, erosion control,  weed suppression, disease resistance, maintenance aspects, and foremost and most importantly–water conservation–with the reduction of water usage. Kurapia met all of these expectations and more.  I believe Kurapia will revolutionize the landscape industry  

Read the rest of this entry »

With the recent rise in temperatures and a little moisture you have likely seen some weeds pop up even if you had put down a pre-emergent in the fall. We have hit the end of the window where the fall application will control the weeds. It is now time to control the weeds that have snuck through your barrier and to put down a control for the summer annuals.

Let us start with controlling the weeds that have made their way through your turf. There are a couple different types of weeds to treat. Before we can give you chemicals to spray its important to recognize the type of grass you’re treating. I will put the recommendations down for a dormant turf lawn and one that has been overseeded with perennial ryegrass for the winter. If you did not overseed in the fall you will follow the dormant turf guidelines. My recommendations will be for bermudagrass so if you have paspalum or St. Augustine make sure you read the herbicide label prior to applying and follow the correct rate. These are usually different than bermudagrass.

Dormant Turf

If you let your Arizona and California lawn go dormant for the winter, it is starting to see a little life now with the warmer temperatures. You will not see any growth until the soil temperature reached 64 degrees which is usually in April, but your lawn will green up in color in March.

First step will be to clean up your lawn by mowing any debris and dead material off the top. This is not scalping the lawn, just get a good clean up. Next step will be to treat any broadleaves or grassy weeds that may have popped through your turf. For broadleaves you can apply 2,4-D and grassy weeds such as poa annua or volunteer ryegrass can typically be hand pulled, dabbed (not sprayed, think bingo dabber) with tiny amount of roundup or a product such as Revolver or Kerb. Because of its very shallow root system you should not have to use any products to kill it. It pulls out of the ground very easily and is usually caused by low areas and too much water.

Poa annua

Read the rest of this entry »

We are spending lots of time outside, and I know you all want to have your California and Arizona lawn looking its best!  I’d like to talk about a few weeds that may be starting to appear in your lawn that are perennial problems. Let’s discuss getting down a pre-emergent herbicide on your lawn before all the spring and summer annuals start to show their faces. Weather obviously plays a key role in everything we do concerning turfgrass so it is important to get the timing right.

This has been a mild winter with little rain causing the ground temperature to stay slightly warmer than normal so we will have some early season weed issues. If you are in a cooler part of town and are still getting hit with the occasional frosts I would hold off until the first part of March. These cool areas can get the pre-emergent down as late as the middle of March, while areas such as Phoenix and Palm Desert should be putting one down between now and the end of the month.

Since most homeowners have an overseeded lawn for the winter I want to make it clear that there are two options on a herbicide bag. One is overseeded rates and the other is non-overseeded rates. If you would like to keep your ryegrass make sure that you follow the overseeded rate or it could take a turn for the worse rather quickly. Read the rest of this entry »

Now that we’re into October it’s time to get the overseeding of your warm season grass process started.  I wanted to pass along some of the most frequently asked questions during this time of the year.

When is the best time to start overseeding?
Ideally overseeding should be done when nighttime temperatures are consistently in the 60’s. Usually this will be in October. There will be some higher and lower than normal temperatures, but anytime during October is good.

How low do I need to scalp the grass prior to seeding?
Height of cut isn’t as important as opening the turf canopy. The shorter you mow the grass, the tighter the turf canopy will be which will result in the need to verticut more aggressively. I recommend not going lower than ½”. There is no need to take the lawn to the dirt or you will cause long term problems to the grass plant.

This overseeded bermuda sod field in Scottsdale, Arizona, is READY!

Read the rest of this entry »

Summer Sod Tips for California and Arizona Lawns

Summer is wrapping up, the kids are heading back to school, and I’m sure you’re ready to come out of hibernation. While the summer heat is far from over in Arizona and California, it’s going to become tolerable outside. With the slightly cooler mornings it’s time to get back outside and get your lawn ready for fall. Most people start thinking about overseeding their California and Arizona sod in September, but ideally you wouldn’t start the process until October when nighttime temperatures get into the 60’s. Between now and then there are some important steps you need to do to get your lawn ready and to save some headaches down the road.